Riccardo Tisci is relatively fresh to the codes of Burberry, but he has already put his imprint all over the brand, outside and in. Where there used to be massive digital screens playing shows and campaign videos in the vast foyer of the company headquarters on London’s Horseferry Road, now the walls are covered with the remastered retro-style TB logo print Tisci commissioned from Peter Saville. Everyone who pays attention to fashion can bring that pattern to mind—internationally ubiquitous—yet it was only revealed this past summer. Such is the accepted speed of things now.
With his second collection—the clothes you see here—Tisci says he was concentrating on consolidating the message he laid out in his extensive debut show, i.e., generational inclusivity. Coming on the heels of the Burberry “family” holiday commercial—seen through Juno Calypso’s slightly surreal filter—Tisci reiterated his original mantra about the brand being for mother and daughter, father and son. Mostly, he’s pulled it all together by not straying far from the classic Burberry palette of beige, white, red, and black.
Yet that’s a lot of people to try to appeal to, all at the same time. Perhaps it’s easiest to start with the men. Anyone with an idea of how Tisci himself likes to dress will immediately see his personal stamp all over the T-shirt and baggy shorts looks, including one in a dark navy plaid–pattern fleece. Young menswear, famously, is a growing category, and one that Burberry aims to own with such rethinks of matching “suits” as the duffle coat, sweatshirt, and shorts, all made in gray jersey knit.
In womenswear there’s more gloss than athleisure. Variations on the trenchcoat abound, notably a fluid, drapey one, worn over wide pants, and another that is more like a sleeveless, tailored coatdress, with one of the season’s innovations on top—a soft padded wrap-shawl, printed with the Burberry logo. That’s an accessory Tisci enlarges on further for the hip “girl”—iterations made in silk scarf prints, held on the shoulders with a diagonal strap. It has the catchiness of an It item soon, no doubt, to be seen on streets and red carpets worldwide.